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From the trip: Quindio, Colombia

Where we stayed · Quindio, Colombia

Sleeping above the coffee farms

Bio Habitat, where the glass wall gives out onto the coffee hills and the pool holds the whole sunset.

Quindio, Colombia

Where
Quindio, Colombia
Kind
Where we stayed
Written
January 2022
Reading
5 minutes

Bio Habitat sits in the hills of Colombia coffee country, and the whole building is arranged around one idea: that the view is the reason you came. Glass walls, an infinity pool on the edge of the slope, and coffee farms running away below you in rows.

The architecture works with the landscape rather than against it. The suites are generous and finished properly, king bed, a private balcony or patio, a large bathroom with a walk-in shower. But the room is not the point. The point is what happens when you open the glass and the room stops having a fourth wall.

Sunset is the event. The pool holds the entire sky, pink and orange going over into deep blue, with the plantation rows dark underneath. We have stayed in a lot of hotels that photograph well. This is one of the few where the photograph does not manage to be better than standing there.

Mornings are for the breakfast, which is a serious spread of tropical fruit, artisanal bread, and good local coffee, which you would hope for given what is growing outside the window. The kitchen accommodates dietary requirements without making it a production.

“The pool holds the entire sky, and the coffee rows go dark underneath it.”

From the journal

What there is to do, and whether you should

There are gardens and rainforest to walk, and the grounds are full enough of plants and flowers that a slow circuit is a genuine activity rather than a way of filling time. There is a pool for swimming as well as for looking at, and a spa.

The hotel sits close to a good deal worth reaching, and the Cocora Valley with its wax palms is the obvious one. Guided walking, birdwatching and horse riding are all arranged from the property.

Our honest recommendation is to do less than you think. This is a place that rewards sitting still, and the number of hotels where that is true is smaller than the number that claim it.

From the trip: Quindio, Colombia
Sunset from the pool deck. Nothing here has been adjusted; the sky did that.

We would go back for the sunset alone, and we would give it an extra night so that we did not spend the first one planning the second.

From the journal · The Travelling T · Written January 2022

The practical bit

If you go

What we would tell a friend before they book. Where we have not confirmed something ourselves, we say so.

Where it is

The coffee hills of Quindio, close enough to Filandia and the Cocora Valley to make both easy days.

Ask for

A suite with the balcony facing the plantation. The view is the product.

Time it

Be on the property for sunset on at least your first night. Do not schedule anything over it.

Breakfast

Included, generous, and the coffee is what you would hope for given the surroundings.

Pace

Do less than you planned. The building is designed for sitting still and it is good at it.

Where we stayed

Bio Habitat Hotel

Quindio, Colombia · Coffee country, in the hills above Filandia

An eco-minded luxury hotel built into the slope, with glass walls, an infinity pool that takes the whole sunset, and suites with private balconies looking over the coffee farms. Gardens and rainforest on the grounds, a spa, and a breakfast worth getting up for.

Reed boats on Lake Titicaca, Peru

The field letter

New reports, about once a month

One email when something new goes up: a field report, a when-to-go note, or a hotel we would send you to. No offers dressed up as news, and one click to leave.

Reed boats, Lake Titicaca, Peru.

Plan this trip

Tell us roughly when, and we will tell you honestly

If you are thinking about Quindio, Colombia, send us a rough month and a rough length and we will tell you whether it is the right shape for you, or whether a different month or route would serve you better. We reply within one business day.